Perspectives

Thoughts on Cambodia September 14, 2010

My husband and I finally had the opportunity to travel to Cambodia in August. We had planned for this trip since last year, but was undecided on when exactly we would go. I am glad we finally made it to this country, it was a much needed break and it was a fulfillment of a childhood dream that SY had, to see Angkor Wat. Mine was to fulfill my own childhood ambitions to be an archaeologist. I later learned in college that it takes more than just good digging skills to appreciate archaeology, and I don’t think I have what it takes to be one in the end. Perhaps a historian in-training!

Day 1: 28th August

We arrived in Siem Reap and was welcomed by our driver Richard, whom we affectionately called “Chad.” He took us back to a lovely B&B called Angkor Spirit Palace, a refurbished cultural centre in 1988, that became a quaint hotel.  We had a great package that allowed us to stay for 4D/3Nights with F&B as well as transportation all covered. It was an ideal package as it allowed us to save a lot, and give us the flexibility we need to travel around temple-hopping.

The first day we made it to Temple street, where we explored the markets and took the time to soak in the local atmosphere. It was interesting for me to see so many novels on sale, on Cambodian history, especially during the horrific Pol Pot regime. I saw books being sold for as cheap as US2 dollars. In Cambodia, US1 dollar can help feed a family for a week, so it means a lot to the people here. I regret now not buying any of the books there, even though at home I have run out of space to store them.

On the first day, my husband also bought me my birthday present – two gemstones set on cheap silver. I didn’t mind that it wasn’t the highest grade or the best silver, I just loved the thought behind it. I’m also a big sucker for gemstones in general.

Day 2: 29th August

We decided to make our way to Angkor Wat for the sunrise. That meant we needed to wake up and be ready by 4.30am! That is no mean feat, seeing that both SY and myself are terrible in the mornings. We are just not morning people in general. So we were in bed as early as 9.30pm. We had a fantastic tour guide named “so-chaet” (pronounced “so-jead”), who had an excellent command of English and knew his history like the back of his hand. Whatever question we asked him, he had the answer. We subsequently booked him for the rest of our trip, and he proved to make our temple explorations very enriching.

We made it to Angkor in the morning but it was a bit tragic as the wet season did not invite the sun to rise at all, and many of the tourists waiting by the lake did not get a good shot. It was very dim and we all ended up disappointed. We adjourned to breakfast right after as the temple gates have not opened for tourists yet, and I personally welcomed the meal. I needed coffee…STAT.

One thing I should mention is the amazing Cambodian coffee – it is bold in flavour and very fragrant. I could not get enough of it and had probably one too many cups during our stay there. We visited both Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat on our second day, and by the late afternoon, the rain clouds gathered and we ended up climbing up the very steep steps to the highest peak of Angkor Wat in the blizzard.

The climb was worth it though cause the stone carvings on the top was breathtaking. The entire temple is cut and made in stone, with Hindu and Buddhist influences both influencing the artwork and architecture in the vicinity. The views were also very worthwhile, although admittedly the dark skies and rain caused a chill to run down my spine. I felt as if armageddon had arrived, and when you see the bullet marks left on some of the temple pillars, it reminded me of the realism of the wars that raged in this country.

Day 3: 30th August

Our third day in Cambodia was very action-packed. We were off in our tuk-tuk in the morning and made an almost two-hour journey to the outskirts of the city to the Shiva Lingas in the mountains. The Shiva lingas here were stone carvings cut into rock, in running stream, because the people believed it made the water running down holy and it helped the people with fertility (the lingas are actually phallic symbols).

It was quite a hike in the morning as we wound our way up and luckily our guide was a really good sport. In fact, he was very agile. He could do some very cool parkour moves running up steep rocks and jumping from one end to the other, in-between tree roots and slippery slopes. I was quite rubbish however, trying to not twist my fragile ankles, stumbling up and down the mountain.

By the time the late afternoon came, the rain clouds descended on us very swiftly. We literally watched the clouds chase us from the countryside to the main city, as our tuk-tuk driver drove as fast as he could to try to avoid it. My husband, undeterred and determined as ever, still insisted on trying to climb another mountain to scale and see another temple. By then, I preferred to stay back in our tuk tuk and sip hot coffee. So he made his way up alone with our guide (who thankfully did not mind walking up in the rain).

During that short period when I was sitting in my tuk tuk, I got to know our driver “Chad.” His story inspired me as he related how he was optimistic about the future. He wants to learn english and makes it a point to wake up and go to a 6am morning class, to study everyday. This is all before his full day of work starts at the hotel. He pays USD10 dollars for the lessons every month – a hefty price for any local.

He also hopes to be able to be a tour guide, and be given the opportunity to drive a car or a van, instead of a tuk tuk. I recognised that to be a promotion from his current role, and his determination was inspirational. I felt ashamed for all those times I complained about having to wake up early for work, or even for my theology classes.

Day 4: 31st August

Our last day, we spent extra time at breakfast, having toast and eggs, hot coffee and tea. We took our time to unwind as we prepared for the journey home. It has been a wonderful time in Cambodia. I can sum up a few things I learned about the country:

1. The effects of the Pol Pot regime and the civil war continues to leave a lasting negative effect on the people of Cambodia. I could see the sadness reflected in their eyes, especially our guide, when we enquired about the war and the communist rule. We learned that it was against the law to discuss publicly anything about local politics in the country, so people whispered in the dark about issues.
2. Local Cambodians are grateful for the future and want change. They welcome the peace that has returned to the country and are keen to rebuild their livelihood. The new generation, people our age, like our tuk tuk driver and our tour guide, are determined to survive (and succeed).
3. The government of Cambodia is corrupt and would often take proceeds from the earnings or profits made in the economy to build lavish mansions for their families, and fund their own interests. Apparently many members of the government were former war lords who now have Swiss bank accounts laden with cash.
4. Many of the Buddha heads were stolen. Tomb raiding is a serious issue in Cambodia and due to the changing of governments and the wars, people were desperate to survive.  So they turned to their national treasures and looted it to make money in the black market. These artefacts could also be stolen by previous colonial rulers of Cambodia – although interestingly enough, a previous colonial rule, the French, now funds much of the restoration work on existing temples.
5. Temple restoration work is rampant since UNESCO recognised much of the temple sites. Government funds from Japan, France and India lead fellow archaeologists and university scholars to visit Cambodia and help to preserve and rebuild many of the temples that were either vandalised or damaged by warfare and nature.
6. Deforestation is a serious issue in Cambodia, with almost 90 per cent of its natural resources almost depleted.
7. Poverty and unemployment leads to alcoholism and domestic violence. There was also a rise in suicides and youth gangsterism in local villages, with many younger men without any means to support themselves or their families.
8. Diseases like malaria and dengue continue to plague the countryside, with children being the biggest victim of the mosquitoes. Often times families cannot afford the long journey to the cities to send their sick children, and the nearest clinic is still very far and hard to reach.
9. Men who tattoo themselves or have piercings are immediately recognised to be part of a gang. It was hilarious then when young children on the street were immediately taken aback at my husband’s appearance (with three big earrings on his left ear) and a large tattoo on his back. One of the boys pointed at him and said “you are gangster!” Poor darling.
10. Lands are largely flat in Cambodia, with the main source of income being agriculture, with many rice paddies stretching for miles -as far as the eye can see.

Much is to be done in Cambodia, but I have hope for this country. I see it in the eyes of my tour guide and I believe that no matter the challenges, the human spirit to survive and persevere in the face of adversary will prevail. I do hope to return again and so far, SY and myself have booked another trip to come more temples, with now our friend so-cheat, taking us to the countryside.